Bali's Hidden Beach: Pasir Putih
A Haven for Travellers Seeking Quiet, Uncrowded Beaches in Bali
© Rod Quin
Five kilometres north east of Candidasa on the east coast of Bali is Pasir Putih, an isolated, beautiful, white sand beach fringed with coconut palms.
Pasir Putih is a five hundred metre long, crescent shaped beach, separated from the rest of the world by green headlands at each end and a steep cliff behind. On the beach are just half a dozen warungs put together from bamboo and palm fronds, serving cold drinks and food, and offering cushioned lounges under umbrellas for hire. At the far end of the beach is a group of traditional, red, blue, green and yellow striped, outrigger fishing boats.
On arrival at the beach, visitors can select a warung and negotiate a menu and time for lunch with the owners. Rather than selecting from the blackboard menu, ask the owners what they have available, as this is more likely to be fresh and in season.
Then it’s into the cool, crystal clear water for a swim. Sections of the bay near the headlands also offer great snorkelling.
After enjoying the ocean, have a soft drink or bintang, the local Bali beer, and watch freshly caught seafood, chicken or traditional Indonesian dishes prepared before you on a makeshift barbecue. Lunch will be served with rice and fresh salads on a white table cloth in the shade of your warung.
In the early afternoon watch as previously unseen local fishermen mysteriously materialise, launch their crafts into the water, unfurl colourful, triangular, curved sails and skim across the ocean, heading out to sea for the day’s catch.
Getting To Pasir Putih
To reach Pasir Putih, take the main road north from Candidasa to the village of Pelasi. The turn-off to the beach is in the middle of the village, down a narrow road between two houses. A small, handwritten sign with an arrow points the way.
But beware: the words above the arrow are subject to change. The 2007 edition of the Lonely Planet guide to Bali recorded them as reading either "Virgin Beach Club" or "Il Pasir Puteh", but by October of that year the sign said, "White Sand Beach".
From Pelasi the road winds for a kilometre through rice paddies and then gradually climbs for another kilometre until it reaches a cleared space in front of a temple. The track to Pasir Putih is to the right of the temple. This track is only six hundred metres long but it is steep, rocky and full of potholes, so it is usually best to leave the car at the top and continue on foot.
Useful Information about Pasir Putih
- Pasir Putih is about a two and half hour drive from Kuta. Follow the signs to Candidasa.
- If staying in Candidasa, it is possible to hire a bemo to Pasir Putih, but bemo drivers might need directions.
- On the drive to Pasir Putih, make sure to stop and take in the spectacular views from the Pura Gaman Pass, halfway between Candidasa and Pelasi. But watch out for the monkeys – they are quite bold.
- About half way along the road between Pelasi and Patir Putih is a booth where visitors might be required to pay a small fee to the local banjar (village council). The booth is not always manned, but if it is, the fee is about 5,000 rupiahs (50 US cents).
- Another and more romantic way to reach Pasir Putih is to hire a boat in Candidasa and approach this remote, tranquil beach from the ocean.
- There are no toilets at Pasir Putih other than the bushes.
- Swimming near the beach is safe but currents can sometimes be strong further out.
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