Bali, Rising From Natural & Political Disasters
A Volcano & Terrorist Bombings Hurt Tourism But Bali Bounced Back
Jun 13, 2009
Three disasters, one natural and two politically motivated,, have struck Bali recently, each one affecting its economic life-line- tourism. Bali depends on tourism for 80% of its economy.
Volcanic Mount Batur has erupted several times and is still active. In 1917 it killed thousands and destroyed temples. In 1994 lava flowed for a month, affecting agriculture and tourism. Its most recent eruption was 2000.
Then two Islamic extremist bombings occurred in October 2002 and 2005. The first event killed over 200 in the tourist nightclub area of Kuta and the second killed 20 with hundreds injured. Both diminished tourism to a trickle of what it had been. But people are slowly returning to Bali to sample its beauty and culture.
Bali's Natural Beauty Is A Magnet
The Bali Tourist Board reported that tourism dropped to about a million in 2003 and 2006, the years following the bombings, but it has doubled to almost two million in 2008. Security was an issue post-bombings but Bali's beauty is a siren call.
One could start at Ubud, Bali's geographic and cultural centre, offering both natural and human delights. The town engages the visitor in many ways. For instance,
- Mt. and Lake Batur are both nearby with its caldera and black swatch of lava visible from cool, open-aired restaurants.
- The lush tiered rice paddies make ravines look like carpeted steps.
- A monkey reserve puts you face to face with the beastie macaques in an Indiana Jones setting.
Beauty abounds around the island too. From the fishing village cum hotel resorts of Sanur, the sister islands, Nusa Penida and Lembongan, provide a warm water reef of tropical treasures only 45 minutes away.
But the Balinese are willing to let you glimpse their life too; not just view their beauty.
Bali Shares It's Traditions
Many Balinese, without guile, are amenable to visitors becoming acquainted with their life through several attractions. Two in particular are the eco-tours and the ever-present evidence of Balinese Hinduism .
Lonely Planet mentions the Bali Eco/Educational Cycling Tour as the best value for getting to know a slice of Bali life. With their local guides, you get:
- small groups, rarely more than ten people, with guides who share personal cultural anecdotes; quality bikes and support vans; back village roads to allow the visitor to mingle with everyday Balinese
- visits to a plantation of export crops, a veritable spice rack from cloves, vanilla, ginseng and tapioca to coffee varieties (robusta and luwak, made famous by the film "Bucket List" )
- visits to community dwellings with explanations of the Bali animism underpinning compound design and temples.
- strolls through rice paddies at various stages and a buffet lunch replete with typical Balinese dishes and recipes.
Temples and religious celebrations are numerous. Balinese Hinduism has over 70 temple celebrations each year, more than 1 per week, one guide said. Religion is a visceral part of life. In the morning, incense and fruit offerings are placed at statues and shop doorsteps. The streets are arched with woven penjors at Gulungan (the victory of good over evil ironically), and black and white saronged statues with fruit and flower offerings are everywhere.
One celebration is Nyepi or Silence Day (March 26/09) where all of Bali goes quiet for 24 hours. Non-Balinese are expected to respect Nyepi by staying off the beaches and streets, no television while staying indoors, and the only airport is closed. A good travel agent may want to book around that date.
Indonesian Bali has weathered its disasters by offering halcyon sunsets and legong dancers, a truly Bali high.
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